Detalhe da montagem dos IGBTs

Detalhe da montagem dos IGBTs:

Note a barra de cobre em vez de cabos.

Note os 6 capacitores.

I got my motor to turn! Then two seconds later, KABOOM! I talked with the IGBT tech support team, the problem appears too much inductance between my dc bus and the IGBT. They recommend using

 flat plates of copper bus bar instead of wire. 

I got my prototype drive improved, rebuilt and ready for another round of testing. Improvements include copper bus bar with 6 large caps, and 4 film caps. This should reduce voltage spikes as the IGBT is firing.

Imagem mais detalhada:

Conferindo a frequência 2,84kHz e tensão de pico a pico 18,4v do sinal de disparo do IGBT. Sem o IGBT estar conectado.

Conferindo o sinal do encoder

Identificando os componentes e ligações do circuito retificador  pwm do IGBT. Estudo inicial.

From: http://will-ev.blogspot.com.br

The blue brick is an IGBT snubber, a 0.68uF cap, 1250V designed for this application. You mount it directly on the IGBT, across the switch. It dampens the energy spikes, preventing the voltages from getting too high (well not preventing, just ... damping) although it wastes energy every single cycle (0.5C*V^2 joules - 8.5W at 50V and 10kHz). That's a lot for a cap, but nowhere near the power getting to the motor (fingers crossed)

The silver strapping on each IGBT is shorting the Base (Gate) to the Emitter lead - thus turning off the transistor, as well as protecting the gate from ESD - I would cry if I broke one. The gate on modules as rugged as this is still *very* fragile. 20V and *poof* when it can withstand 1200 on the other two, pretty crazy.

Circuit:
Exactly the same concept as before. One transistor that pulls the M- bar to B- and one diode that allows freewheel current from M- to B+ when the transistor is off. 
IGBTs have a reverse diode like a power mosfet does, but it is much a better diode, rated at the full 400A, with a pretty low voltage drop (0.3 on a meter test, but that means squat in the hundreds of amps)